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February 2, 2006– February 25, 2006
curated by Terry Jones
TERRY JONES ON i-DENTITY
‘Identity is the individual thumbprint to our DNA. Humanity
is at the core of i-D’s editorial ethic – to give space
to a range of people with contrasting constructive opinions irrespective
of religion, colour, nationality or social background. With ideas
travelling through the web of digital communication faster than
at any other time in history, i-D will continue to feature the diverse
environment we are privileged to live and work in.’
Terry Jones, i-D Magazine Founder and i-Dentity
Exhibition Curator
EXHIBITION OVERVIEW
In August 1980 a publishing phenomenon was born. Heralding in a
new generation of print enterprises, i-D magazine - a worldwide
manual of style was created by Terry Jones, on a mission to explore
London’s thrilling street culture – a scene that was
being largely ignored by mainstream fashion. Conceived of during
his time as art director at British Vogue, i-D would soon set the
template for that much-celebrated publishing genre – the style
magazine.
i-D magazine, was one of the first arenas where the barriers between
art and fashion photography were assaulted. In the process, key
moments in the explosion of global popular culture were captured
on its pages. The magazine has had an incredible impact at the cutting
edge of high fashion, art and street culture shaping the way a generation
looked at itself and looked at itself looking at its self.
August 2005 marked 25 years of i-D Magazine and in celebration of
this journey, Terry Jones has directed and curated the current exhibition
first >launched in London and due to be presented in New York
at the Chelsea Art Museum from February 1- 25, 2006.
The show follows in the footsteps of the Smilei-D exhibition (2001
- present) in its drive to bring the i-D ethos to an even wider
global audience and, as Jones points out, ‘to inspire people
to capitalise on their own creative potential. The core of i-D’s
international appeal’, he adds, ‘is how its fashion
and ideas communicate beyond language barriers and nationality.’
The exhibition aims to capture the richness of i-D’s archive,
tracing its history of cutting edge thinking, imagery and design.
In addition a collection of new work has been commissioned which
continues to explore the theme of identity working as ever on the
subcultures working at fashion and art’s fringes.
Indeed Jones’ approach to art direction, as seen in all aspects
of the exhibition, has been one of experiment and innovation. Expressing
a strong interest in the notion of personal creativity, he has given
i-D’s collaborators free rein to explore their ideas. Combining
graphics and photography as well as conversations, music, projections
and scent, the resulting exhibition is an intriguing, multi-sensory
experience. Seven scent curators, for example, have been chosen
to create a smell based on a five-year period of i-D history (imprinted
onto fans). From the ‘80s recollections of Stephen Jones,
Caryn Franklin and Kirsten Owen to Edward Enninful and Avril Mair’s
thoughts from the Nineties and on towards Liz Hancock and Jeremy
Scott’s signature notes for the new millennium, these scents
have been produced in partnership with Symrise, the innovative leader
of the worldwide fragrance industry. Meanwhile, in other areas of
the exhibition, spoken interviews from the i-D archives work to
represent i-D magazine’s 25 years and specially-commissioned
soundtracks – from Michael Kopelman, David Dorrell, James
Lavelle, Pablo Psychonaut, Dean Langley and Frédéric
Sanchez - serve to conjure up the moves and moods of the different
eras.
CONTRIBUTORS - OVER 100 LUMINARIES
Over 100 past and current luminaries from all sides of the creative
spectrum have been approached to contribute to this exhibition.
Agnes b, Alasdair McLellan, Alex McDowell, Ali Madhavi, Anette Aurell,
Anuschka Blommers and Neils Schumm, Armin Linke, Bernhard Willhelm,
Christian Witkin, Corinne Day, Craig McDean, Dave Dorrell, David
Armstrong, David Bailey, David LaChapelle, David Sims, Dennis Morris,
Dylan Jones, Donald Christie, Edward Enninful, Ellen von Unwerth,
Eugene Souleiman, Frederic Sanchez, Harmony Korine, Havana Laffitte,
Hussein Chalayan, James Lavelle, Jane How, Jason Evans, Jean Baptiste
Mondino, Jeremy Scott, Judy Blame, Juergen Teller, JT Leroy, Kate
Moss, Kayt Jones, Kirsten Owen,Kuang-Yu Tsui, Mana Bernardes, Marcus
Tomlinson, Mario Sorrenti, Mark Borthwick, Mark Lebon, Matt Jones,
Max Vadukul, Michael Kopelman, Michael Roberts, Michel Gaubert,
Nathaniel Goldberg, Nick Knight, Olafur Eliasson, Paolo Roversi,
Pat McGrath, Richard Burbridge, Sean Ellis, Shannon Plumb, Simon
Foxton, Solve Sundsbo, Stephen Jones, Steven Klein, Su Mei Tse,
Takashi Homma, Terry Richardson, Timur Celikdag, Vanina Sorrenti,
Warren du Preez & Nick Thornton Jones, Wing Shya, Wolfgang Tillmans,
Xu Zhen, Michel Gaubert.
i-D Magazine (a brief background)
i-D was launched in 1980 as a fanzine dedicated to the street style
of punk-era London and soon became essential reading for the fashion-aware.
i-D has now grown into a glossy magazine that documents fashion
and contemporary media, and has gone a long way toward defining
it. The wink and smile on each front cover – a graphic representation
of the magazine’s logo - have become integral to the i-D identity;
obvious yet understated, an icon in the world of fashion and media.
In 2001, i-D’s influence was recognised with the publication
by Taschen of ‘Smile i-D: Fashion And Style, The Best From
20 Years Of i-D’, a 600-page retrospective book which was
sold internationally. This was followed in 2002 by ‘Fashion
Now’, an anthology of contemporary designers produced by the
i-D team and published by Taschen in seven languages. i-D has also
held numerous exhibitions worldwide; venues include the Musée
Des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Art Directors Club in New
York, the Armani flagship store in Milan, Spiral Hall in Tokyo,
Colette in Paris, the Laboratorio Arte Alameda in Mexico City and
Museo Nacional Bellas Artes in Santiago. i-D’s website was
established in 2001 and currently receives over 1.5 million hits
each month, reinforcing the magazine’s spirit and ethos to
a global audience.
(This text was written in collaboration with the Fashion and Textile
Museum, London)
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